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Back to Ethiopia with love Â BeideÂMariam Ejigu (June 2012) Page 1
Back To Ethiopia With Love
Beide-Mariam Ejigu
It was in the early hours of Sunday morning that I arrived in Addis Ababa after 8 hours flight from London.
It took me almost 2 hours to obtain the required visa before I got out of the airport building. The main reason
for such long delay inside the terminal was a large number of people arriving home for Easter holiday and the
inadequate number of staff (only two personnel) available on the day to issue the entry visa for the entire
passengers. It was therefore very frustrating to queue up for long time after such a long tiring flight. Once I
walked out of the building and met my families and friends, however, I forgot about the unpleasant long
queue, the hassle and the tiredness associated with my journey.
There were many people at the waiting area and I saw tears streaming down on many faces when they met
their beloved once. I was moved by this endearing culture of ours where as Ethiopians, we always send and
receive family members and friends with tears, affectionate kisses and hugs. Although we leave home for
various reasons, we are always attached to our beloved country and follow what is going on. We are not
discouraged to love our country because of the indignities and calamities caused by brutal dictators. We
remain proud of our ancient heritage and bask in the glory of our great and famous people such as St. Yared,
Emperor Amde-Tsion, Emperor Theodorous II, Emperor Menelik II, Abune Peteros, Ras Abebe Aregay,
Prime minster Aklilu Habete Wolde, Kebede Michael, Laureate Tsegaye G/Medhin, Abebe Bekila etc.
I went back to Ethiopia first time in 2001. As for the country, my impression was everything and nothing has
changed since I left home. Then after a couple of weeks into my vacation, there was student riot and I was
perturbed and gutted by the way the regime brutally dealt with it. I returned to Europe and did not therefore
go back until last year. However, this time a decade later the first thing that I witnessed was how the capital
city,Addis Ababa was materially changed and it was still growing bigger by the day. There are a number of
newly established areas, roads and the city is over-crowded with the natives and foreigners. I was told that
most of the changes came about after the 2005 election crisis. During my short vacation, I have learnt a lot
about the political situation, the cost of living and the changes Addis Ababa was going through. Upon my
return last May, I wrote my observations and shared it with my family, relatives and friends. The feedback
was positive and I was encouraged and advised to publish it online. Since I wrote this short article, some
interesting developments have taken place in Ethiopia mainly the absence of the prime minster from the
political arena. The explanations given at press conferences with regard to his whereabouts are all
ridiculously implausible and puzzling, although various sources indicate that he might be dead. Initially, I Back to Ethiopia with love Â BeideÂMariam Ejigu (June 2012) Page 2
was planning to wait until I could find out the prime minister’s fate; then modify the article accordingly and
publish it but later I thought my article could stray away from my original intention. Therefore, I decided to
publish the original article which is a simple observation rather than a critical analysis of the political
situation in Ethiopia.
Addis Ababa and its dwellers
The Ethiopian capital city Addis Ababa which was founded during Emperor Menelik’s reign has been
transformed into a major city in the past decades. It has grown steadily in terms of buildings, roads and also
the size of its inhabitants. Currently, there are lots of building and road constructions everywhere and part of
the plan is to gradually to replace all the wattle and daub houses by concrete/story buildings at least in the
city centre but public parks and children play grounds are very minimal or non-existent in the city. Once the
current constructions are completed, it is expected that Addis Ababa will be a very beautiful city. Yet, the
fate of those people who are losing their properties or lands due to demolishment is unknown whether they
will in fact get a replacement or compensation according to the market value. Many have some rather
contentious views on this issue. This plan or policy might leave many people destitute. Some have been
offered to move into newly built condominiums. However, these new buildings range between three to seven
floors with no elevator which are difficult places to dwell in for the old and disabled. Some of these buildings
are already showing signs of deterioration in less than a year of completion.
There are a lot of newly built roads across the city and some of these are shoddily done and already showing
deterioration and potholes. It seems there is no proper coordinated plan between the municipality and other
companies such as the Ethio-Telecom and Water Services as some of these new asphalt roads have already
been dug within the completion of few weeks/months. When these roads are dug, there is no any kind of
barrier or sign which says road-work in progress or indicating there is a hole; as a result many people and
even cars fall into these holes specially in darkness. What surprising more is after completing a particular
task; the workers just put back the soil into the hole and leave without properly repairing the surface of the
road which makes the road muddy when it rains. Some even have left a pile of soils and rocks on the
pavements which have been there for months. Basically it shows there is no sense of responsibility,
accountability and proper maintenance whatsoever!
The number of foreigners and Ethiopians from abroad make Addis Ababa an exciting polyglot city. The city
is full of myriads of bars and hotels in every corner and some of the hotels are really opulent. The ubiquity
various small business of Khaldis coffee shops and other outlets are everywhere in the city. People are Back to Ethiopia with love Â BeideÂMariam Ejigu (June 2012) Page 3
usually sitting at coffee shops or by the side of the road and some of them are gazing pensively at no specific
things and lost in thoughts. The main streets and squares are full of people who travel around and peddling
their wares. There are a lot of beggars everywhere; some of whom squat around churches and on the side of
streets in plastic shacks. Some of these plastic shacks were originally made as a bivouac by the people who
were forced to leave war zone areas (from north of the country) almost two decades ago which is now turned
into a permanent accommodation.
Our people are naturally very courteous and cultured. Even the street urchins are very respectful to the elders
except the odd brats and some young people also show ignoble actions. Most people use a double entendre
expression or mordent wit when they talk about politics. People actually don’t say much about politics
neither in public places nor in private due to the number of security forces personnel around and of course the
draconian measure usually taken by them. Therefore, most people usually say “belefelefu yitefu†which the
English say “he was burnt by the very fire he started†and keep quite. Despite the unpleasant experience in
the country, there is nothing in the people’s demeanour that suggests they are anxious but rather look
bonhomie. However, I am sure their smiley faces belie their misery and suffering.
This year a few honoured people like the writers Mamo Wedeneh, Sebehat Gebre Egziabher and the great
artist Afework Tekle have passed away. Actually Afework Tekle passed away while I was in Addis and
watched the burial service on TV. He was buried at the Holy Trinity cathedral, as befits someone of his
position. These famous people have left a legacy of literature and art behind and their work is enlightening
many of us and the generation to come.
On the other hand the city is full of dilapidated old cars. Taking a taxi was the most frightful experience as I
was not too sure if the breaks work in steep downhill roads. The number of traffic lights working in the city
dwindled to the lowest level. No idea why they are not working or where they have disappeared. Pollution is
beyond belief! The smokes of the cars, dusts and all kinds of things in the air give you discomfort when you
breath. The dirtiness of the city would make an aesthete person shudder. Some of the side streets have putrid
smell which makes you queasy. The frequency of power outage was less compare to my previous visit but
still a major problem.
There are a number of new squares and roundabouts named after some foreigners such as Pushkin, Bob
merely, etc. The actual statues have not been erected yet but only the plinth. The most heart breaking thing is
that we have our own numerous heroes who did a great deal for our beloved country and those are the ones
who deserve a spot for their contribution. What has Pushkin done for Ethiopia? The current generation is just Back to Ethiopia with love Â BeideÂMariam Ejigu (June 2012) Page 4
looking abroad for a model or guide in every aspect of life and worship anything foreign. Even most shops,
bars and restaurants including those tacky ones do have foreign names. Some are in written in English and
some have English names written in Amharic alphabets which are very disappointing. This foreign addiction
is not limited to the above but people are more interested in English football league than their own. I
understand that there is no a descent team in the country but why on earth they fight when one of the English
team they support loses? The radio and the newspapers are constantly blathering about English football. This
makes me wonder whether our people have any more pride in our own heritage. Whom shall we blame for
such dregs of conscience? What is the government doing? What are the intellectual and cultural elites doing?
Most of the population have a great desire to get out of the country including young elementary school
children. There are numerous girls who are preying on visitors from abroad to try their luck. These beautiful
girls are everywhere including in big hotels’ lounge pretending they are waiting for someone or they are
having a good time with their friends. Of course there are also some who seem to be on the take. They look
all sugar and spice when they see a potential predator is around so it easier for him to start chatting them up.
Some of these visitors might have ordinary job or a job that is as the low man on the totem pole but brag they
have a very important post or pretend they are well off in order to attract these young girls. These heartless
scoundrels flaunt their money and abuse lots of young girls; and that really takes the biscuit! They can be
found everywhere including coffee shops or clubs at anytime of the day to take advantage of these vulnerable
girls’ desperate situation. Some of them are often in their inebriated states and behave like juvenile
delinquents which make them a total embarrassment. Their salacious jokes and comments make them nasty
twerps.
The Cost of living
The current cost of living is very high and wondered how the majority of the ordinary people manage to live
with their low income. If one says it is due to the value of the ETH birr, it might be ok for imported consumer
goods. However, there is no justification of high prices for domestic products. For instance at Easter the price
of meat such as chicken and lamb were an eye opener experience… prices almost coming closer to what one
pays in the west. The cost of drinks and meals in those plush bars and restaurants are very expensive. This
might be to get rid of the riff-raff far away! However, most of the ordinary people are begrudged paying so
much for most of the basic items since they lack the financial wherewithal.
People in other countries (mainly in Europe/US since I know these countries) can afford to buy basic or
luxury stuffs they need since their earnings are relatively related to the cost of living in the country they live Back to Ethiopia with love Â BeideÂMariam Ejigu (June 2012) Page 5
in whereas in Ethiopia people with basic salary cannot afford to buy basic day to day necessities let alone
luxury goods. It seems the government pays scant attention to the needs of its citizens mainly the poor. The
hardship imposed on the people, the mistreatment of its citizen and the high cost of living will be the coup de
grâce to the downfall of this rouge regime. Unfortunately, uprising is the inevitable corollary of such
hardship imposed on society.
The growing disparity between rich and poor is beyond imagination. Some of the people who have lots of
business that have brought them wealth beyond the dreams of avarice. The majority of people have a frugal
lifestyle and they criticize the ostentatious lifestyle of their leaders and those who are associated with them.
The Government
In the western culture leaders are usually elected every few years depends on the country’s constitution.
However, in the Africa continent most are usually stay in power for a life time and are often replaced by
force except in a few instances. In Ethiopia, the thousand years ancestral monarchy was overthrown by the
military Derge which was also in turn removed by the Tigre People Liberation Front (TPLF) or known as the
woyanes. The woyanes are so different from the previous leaders and they have taken the country back to the
previous century. When Emperor Theodorous II ascended to the throne, one of his main aims was to end the
era of the princes and re-unify Ethiopia. He was constantly on mission to the neighbouring provinces to
accomplish his dream. Although he committed suicide on the fortress of Meqedela on 14
th
April 1868 as his
dreams were thwarted but he still paved the way for reunification. The subsequent leaders let the torch of
unity go on and Theodorous’s vision did eventually materialise. This year, it is 144 years since Emperor
Theodorous died and unlike his vision and that of the earlier and later leaders, the woyane has facilitated the
way to new ‘Era of the Princes’ and the disintegration of the country. It is my fervent hope that it won’t
happen as this is not also the desire of the Ethiopian people.
The leadership has been accused of being involved in venal practices. Rampant corruption is in its highest
level in the country’s history. Some of the crass remarks made by government officials are disturbing and
make you wonder whether these people have the slightest idea about our culture or administration. People
accuse the government of riding roughshod over the country’s law. Most people complain about courts being
corrupted and miscarriages of justice. The woyanes have been involved in nefarious activities which have
been reprobated. People continuously being arrested, put in jail and there is a paucity of information on the
where abouts of them or nobody knows when they will appear in court. Actually detention without trial,
disappearance, torture and murder are common practice in Ethiopia during the previous regime and now. The Back to Ethiopia with love Â BeideÂMariam Ejigu (June 2012) Page 6
prisons condition are said to be appalling and the guards’ cruelty beggares belief. Such actions are a great act
of malevolence! If the current leadership possess the fear of God and respect our culture, it wouldn’t have
been making incendiary remarks and inflicting odious crimes against its own people. Perhaps Emperor Haile
Selassie’s speech in 1948 describes the current government precisely: “Where there is no faith in a
civilization but only power, that civilization is surrounded with doubt and fear and its power expresses
itself in brutalityâ€.
Because of security everybody is frisked at the entrance of any building when entering. Some of the guards
do not have any manner whatsoever and they give you peremptory instructions what you need to do and this
behaviour must be inherited from our culture living under authoritarianism. This is not limited to the guards
but employees in other governmental offices including at the airport security and immigration desk
too. Questioning or arguing with them can jeopardize your safety. In the past there were many scrupulous
politicians well known for altruism who stand for the rights of the citizens and they ensured that government
money was spent properly; however, in these days people in charge of certain offices will do anything in
order to accumulate wealth. What I noticed also, like so many politicians or others in power, most ordinary
people also have insatiable desire for power so that they can benefit from the system too. When are we going
to find a veracious and conscientious leader who put first the country and the well being of the people? The
definition of power in Ethiopia is an opportunity to embezzle and expropriate public fund; to receive bribes
and abuse helpless people whereas in the West it is to serve the people. People justify such atrocious
behaviour by quoting our adage “sishom yalbela sishar yikochewal†which could be rendered in English as
“he who did not benefit when promoted, would regret when demoted.†It seems nepotism and malfeasances
are a well accepted practice in the country. It clearly shows that there is a vast leadership chasm between
Ethiopia and the Western culture.
Road blockage is not unusual for the residents of Addis Ababa whenever the prime minster is ventured out of
his den which can last hours. Just a few hours before he is passing by, pandemonium reigned on the road
thanks to the federal police. The police usually jostling and shoving the pedestrian to go to the side streets or
into buildings and any cars parked on the streets are checked. Why does one live in such fear? Where are
the affection and immunity surrounding and protecting the ‘beloved’ progressive leader? I pray to see that day
whereby a leader is elected by the people who is not scared to go out and mingle with his/her citizens and not
constantly guarded by the army/special forces. I will be very happy to die after I witness my wish like
Simeon who said “Lord, now lettest thou thy servant depart in peace, according to thy word: For mine eyes
have seen thy salvation….. (Luke 2:29).†Back to Ethiopia with love Â BeideÂMariam Ejigu (June 2012) Page 7
The government has proscribed any websites or newspaper that criticize the leadership and as a result many
websites have been blocked and could not be accessed in Ethiopia. However, the media in Ethiopia
constantly excoriates the leadership and the people in the higher authority in a sarcastic way and sometimes
boldly and directly. Some are taking risks on what they do and these individuals should be admired and
acknowledged for their courage.
Religion
Religion is something that is taken seriously by the people and most Ethiopians are very religious people in
their respective denominations. A large number of people flock into the churches every day. Most of the
churches in Europe have been closed due to lack of attendants whereas in Ethiopia lots of new churches and
mosques are being built. The number of people at a special procession or feast day is in thousands. In the
evenings most churches are open for evening prayers and sermons and a lot of people attend this on daily
basis. I hardly heard any modern music on the streets or taxis but only spiritual songs until Teddy Afro’s new
CD “Tikur Sew†came out. I am really surprised to see the even more growing religious tendency in our
country and wondering what has triggered this. Is it because the people utterly despondent about their life
and do not see a brighter future and seek God’s intervention to free them from their misery?
The current generation of the Orthodox followers are very conservative and traditionalist thanks to Mahebere
Kidusan. These young people undermine the church fathers/leaders and challenging not only the leadership
but they think they know better than them which is a bit of a concern. Some time it is hard to blame them
totally when one see the statue of the patriarch and his picture hanging in the compound of most churches. In
the old good days or ancient time most church fathers were being abstemious; however, these days the
clergies’ life style and the conduct of their duties are not according to the scriptures/The Law of Kings (Fitha
Negest). Because of their life style and not looking after their flocks, some of these sanctimonious clergies
have lost respect from the ordinary people. This is a usual trend seen from the top to lower hierarchy. While
the head of the church has a lavish life style, there are numerous churches being closed; lots of clergies do
not have a proper salary to support their families and many Christians murdered by some fanatic Muslim
elements.
Beside the Ethiopian Orthodox Church, the different denominations such as Pentecostal and Protestants are
also working hard to convert many to their groups and their numbers are increasing. There are a number of
new worship halls in the city. I see also a large number of mosques sprang in strategic areas of the city. I see Back to Ethiopia with love Â BeideÂMariam Ejigu (June 2012) Page 8
more men with long beard and women covered from top to toe. So in general religious radicalism is in the
rise. There have been a number of incidents whereby Christians have been murdered by some fanatic
Muslims while attending church services in Jimma and in other parts of the country; however, it seems the
government condones such atrocities which indirectly encourage these thugs trading under the name of Islam
to continue their barbaric act. After learning more about the relationship between Muslims and Christians, I
have a sudden premonition of what the future might bring. Unless the various faith groups work together to
encourage society to live side by side peacefully, it will have a serious repercussion. The religious tension in
some parts of the country makes it a tinderbox ready to ignite.
Conclusion
The country I love so much “Ethiopia†has progressed in the past decades in terms of infrastructure and
developments. Despite the inimical policies and cumbersome bureaucracy, hundreds of new small businesses
have spawned across the country. The government could have achieved more but the investment procedures
and application’s process are serious impediments to attract investors. There are still a lot of hurdles to be
surmounted before an effective procedure is in place.
Ethiopia is well known for its human right violation and currently ranked top of the list. I am hoping all the
injustice, fiendish act of wickedness and the very mediocre ethnic mentality will perish from our land and all
people live respecting each other and see the bigger picture of greater Ethiopia than their villages and
ethnicity. I pray the current myopic government which uses the obsolete ethnic banner shall come to its
senses and change its policy so that people are assigned to various posts based on their qualifications rather
than ethnic background or political affiliation. The damage has already been done and it will take many more
years to uproot the politics of the cult of ethnicity and restore Ethiopianism. Our resplendent monarchs and
patriots have fought and repelled all the invaders/colonizers for “one glorious Ethiopia†while sacrificing
their precious lives. They paid high prices so that the generations to come would live in peace and rightly be
proud of their heritage.
The Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church which is known as the unifying factor has also played a
significant role for the independence of our country and integrity of the various ethnic groups. The church
also intervened in the past when leaders abuse their power and her citizens’ rights were violated. However,
the past four decades her role and power has diminished and she has given a blind-eye to the abuse caused by
the leaders. Beside her previous political involvement, the church was the mainstay of the literature and
music culture for our country. This ancient church has been a target of invaders and colonialists including Back to Ethiopia with love Â BeideÂMariam Ejigu (June 2012) Page 9
fanatic Muslim elements. The orthodox Christians and other religious groups have lived in relatively perfect
amity for many centuries; however, I’ve gnawing doubts about religious hatred and conflict in the provinces.
I am hoping the tension will wane and people will continue to live together in peace and harmony as it has
been for centuries.
Our past and recent history show that our people are very pious, humble, hard working, kind, respectful and
they deserve better. They are very forgiving and benevolent. For instance, during the Second World war, they
pardoned the Italian POWs who murdered them and did all kinds of inhumanities after Emperor Haile
Selassie delivered a speech (which is known as “the golden speechâ€) the day he entered Addis Ababa.
Secondly, when the bandits (woyane) approached Addis Ababa , Dergue was not in control of the cities. At
that time, the people did not go after those who committed the most gruesome crime during the ‘Red terror’,
though those criminals were living next door. The current leadership has been ruling the country with iron
fist for over twenty years now while not showing much respect to its citizens. There were occasions that the
leaders of the regime made humiliating and offensive public and private remarks particularly directed against
a section of the population they politically categorised as traditional oppressor. However; our wise and
characteristically patient people were not put out by these rash and irresponsible mischaracterizations and
they were willing to ignore these, let bygones be bygones for the sake peace and ethnic harmony in the land.
Indeed, during EPRDFs time, the nation is held together by the sagacity and togetherness of the people
but not by the much flaunted ethnic policy and widespread practice of ethnic favouritism of the regime. The
Ethiopian people are teaching their own government the art of being Ethiopian and the politics of peaceful
coexistence among the different groupings in the country. It should heed to this wisdom and sense of fairness
of our people. By jettisoning its ‘revolutionary democracy’ dogma on the one hand and doing away with its
unfair ethnic favouritism, on the other, the regime should be able to create a good will amongst its people
and prove to be a responsible and just government in the interest of its own survival. Otherwise, its obstinate
refusal to ‘change’ may bring the same fate that has already fallen the regimes of Ghadafi and Mubarak.
Despite all the unpleasant things happening in our country, one can, as a visitor, enjoy one’s stay in Ethiopia
if one can manage to deflect ones thoughts from the suffering of the poor people and their dire situation. In
the class divided city, the people visible in day time and evenings are of different social extractions. During
the day, Addis is a city of hustle and bustle and therefore you may not discern much of the divide. In the
evening, however, Addis looks completely another city, the type of people in clubs or restaurants are
different in very many ways. Yet, it is heart breaking to see the number of girls lined up in the streets of
Addis once it is dark. I am sure these girls are not just prostitutes but the challenge of life must have forced Back to Ethiopia with love Â BeideÂMariam Ejigu (June 2012) Page 10
them out to make a living. You also think of the high number of girls going to the Arab countries to work.
Does the government, in any way, follow up the well being of its citizens in the country they live in and
work? I doubt that specially when I hear the kind of incidents affecting our sisters in Lebanon and other
places this year. Many of our hard working people who try to make a living in many of the Middle Eastern
Arab countries tell poignant accounts about the mistreatment, hardship and tragedy they experience in these
places on a daily basis. The political situation and economic burden have forced our people to suffer in all
aspects of life. One might say it is their choice but it is a matter of survival otherwise if things were
promising or fair in our country, they do not go through such hardship.
In general, my short stay in Addis Ababa was absolutely fantastic. I am very glad that I went there and spent
a few weeks with my family and I have no words to express my heartfelt delight except saying simply the
best! However, when I think about my country, my moods vacillate between hope and despair and start
wondering where is the God of Ethiopia to wipe the tears of His people and assuage their grief? We
Ethiopians regularly pray and attend church services unlike the rich western society but our suffering seems
endless. What have we done to be punished like this and for so long? When is it going to end?
I hope the God of our forefathers will look after our country with His love, kindness, boundless blessings and
forgive us of whatever sins we have committed wittingly or unwittingly. I pray that He will in his divine
goodness allow us to prosper, live in peace and happiness. I hope and pray that the day will come when most
of our people will have three meals a day, live without fear and build a great nation whose generations to
come shall inherit a just, fair, rich and powerful land.
May our Lord keep the integrity of Ethiopia and frustrate and foil the schemes of those who are waiting to
see the interment of our beloved country.
June 2012
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